Dear Classical Wisdom Reader,
Poor Jussepi’s donkey! Back in 1900, the unfortunate beast of burden tripped on unstable ground and fell through a deep access shaft to a hidden tomb. The accidental explorer sacrificed its life, but in doing so brought an astounding ancient site to light; second century tombs that were tunneled into the bedrock during the age of the Antonine emperors.
Spiraling deep into the abyss, we hoped not to get lost in the vast necropolis, or lose any in our small party of three...It was dark, damp and empty and our voices reverberated off the ancient stones. Fortunately it wasn’t long before we too accidentally found what we were looking for: The impressive Hall of Caracalla in the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa.
You see, dear reader, we have come to the ancient city of Alexandria to commune with the dead, pay our respects to the ruins, past and present, and marvel at the turquoise seas, imagining the vast sunken palaces just beneath the waves.
We decided to forgo the protective bubble of a tour or a fancy hotel and opted instead to explore this historic city on our own (something I would not necessarily advise, even for the well versed traveler). I was astonished to discover just how immense this place is, overwhelming in both size and sound, with its clear and visible remains of so many former empires.
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Women in full burkas huddle near the formidable 15th century Ottoman citadel built with ancient Ptolemaic stones of the famed lighthouse... Capped American tourists drink atop lavish, slightly dilapidated European hotels which overlook Egyptian nationalist monuments...And underneath crumbling communities lie earthen catacombs where Roman emperors buried equinne bones.
It is this last example, one of the Seven Wonders of the Medieval world, which is so extraordinary. These catacombs not only preserve an ancient world, but capture an astonishing conglomeration and interaction of different cultures. Some statues are Egyptian in style, yet bear Roman clothes, like this buff Anubis:
Snakes flanking both sides of the entrance wear a Roman Caduceus, a Greek Thyrsus as well as the Egyptian Pschent. To top them off, the gorgon Medusa offers her stony stare above them both. Inside an Egyptian tableau sits atop a Hellenistic one, together but divided.
It’s as impressive as it is confusing. Indeed, after retracing our steps from the disorienting labyrinth and re-emerging from the subterranean grave, I had to ask myself where I was... and to wonder if this mixture of so many peoples is always a good thing?
As a self described third culture kid and lifelong immigrant, the conclusion should be obvious... but as a lover of philosopher and history, it’s still worth asking. After all, Alexandria’s extensive past, the collection of so many different religions and perspectives mingling and merging, is regularly littered both with bursts of inspiration and production as well as with bloodshed and violence... perhaps none so iconic (and disturbing) as the death of Hypatia.
Classical Wisdom Members can read our full article on the Murder that Shocked an Empire:
But what do you think, dear reader?
What do these ancient melting pots tell us about human nature and culture? Are they shining examples, epicenters of invention and innovation... or warnings of inevitable clashes and conflict?
Add your thoughts below! And feel free to reference the many ancient melting pots, not just Alexandria...
In the meantime, watch this space for Wednesday’s article, inspired by our location’s most famous resident… Cleopatra. If you aren’t a member, subscribe now to discover the vast ancient resources available on Classical Wisdom.
All the best,
Anya Leonard
Founder and Director
Classical Wisdom
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